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Tuesday, June 29, 2021

Here’s how Toronto restaurants are answering calls to make Canada Day more meaningful - Toronto Star

Restaurants in the GTA are planning to donate a portion of Canada Day sales to Indigenous organizations after recent discoveries of unmarked graves at the sites of former residential schools in BC and Saskatchewan.

Among them is restaurateur Jen Agg, who announced her restaurants (Grey Gardens, Bar Vendetta, Rhum Corner, Le Swan French Diner and Cocktail Bar) will be donating 15 per cent of sales to Toronto Indigenous Harm Reduction.

“We just wanted to do something, you feel so helpless in a situation like this where this abhorrent thing has happened and the Indigenous community and those who know about it have been talking about it for decades,” said Agg. “It’s really wanting to do a small thing to acknowledge that this is awful.”

Agg notes that donating 15 per cent of sales will be higher than donating all profits, adding that most restaurants are still heavily in debt due to the COVID-19 pandemic. On a typical day, profit margins are actually closer to 10 per cent.

“It’s not the easiest to give out any money right now,” said Agg, “but guess what: There’s a lot of things that are hurting. Just take out one night and take a cut of your sales. ... We’ve been fully booked since we reopened so this isn’t about booking tables. We had an amazing response from our wine agents who are going to help us raise more money by donating wine.”

Meagan Bowden of Phancy’s Bodega, an online local-food shop that started last September, announced it will be donating 15 per cent of sales that day to the Legacy of Hope Foundation, which develops educational resources to teach people about the impact of residential schools.

“I saw (Agg’s) post and it’s a great idea. Given the discoveries of the graves, it’s a disgusting situation … This is one of the things myself and others can do to support these organizations if we’re able to,” said Bowden. Her shop also previously raised money for Legacy of Hope through the sale of Father’s Day food boxes, and Phancy’s plans on making more future donations.

“We’re not looking for recognition, it’s one thing I can do and it should be a given,” said Bowden.

Parkdale’s Le Phenix owner Jacob Wharton-Shukster announced the restaurant will be donating sales on that day (spirits company Beam Suntory will be matching donations) to the Anishnawbe Health Foundation, which has been providing mobile COVID-19 testing throughout the city.

Wong’s Ice Cream in East Chinatown announced Monday morning it will be donating 10 per cent of ice cream sales on July 1 to the Native Women’s Resource Centre of Toronto.

“As a shop owner, it seems like a simple thing to make a financial contribution,” said owner Ed Wong. “I’m the son of immigrant parents who love this country deeply and part of me is a proud Canadian, but the world is more complex than that. What I do best is make ice cream, so why not use that as a way to put money in the hands of someone who is good at providing aid and counselling for those most affected by the country’s past?”

Agg agrees: “We can hold two thoughts at the same time,” she said. “You can love a place and understand the opportunities it’s given you but still be highly critical of it.”

Joybird Fried Chicken sous chef Christopher Britt, who is part of the Shawnee and Potawatomi tribes, said the restaurant operating inside the Belgian Moon Brewery at the Stackt Market will be donating money to the Orange Shirt Day campaign after Joybird owner chef Trevor Lui consulted with him to suggest an organization to support Indigenous causes.

“In all honestly, anything helps at this point. It’s bringing awareness to these issues and whether it’s through donations, wearing orange shirts or whatever the case may be, I hope it helps out,” said Britt.

Chef Joseph Shawana, chair of the Indigenous Culinary of Associated Nations, said in an email that “it’s a good step forward for the (restaurant) industry at large to show solidarity with Indigenous communities. In our culture, food plays a huge role in our lives, from nourishment to our ceremonies. Food is always there. The hospitality industry has a big voice and I’m thankful they were using their platforms to show Indigenous support.”

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To support Indigenous communities beyond July 1, Shawana, who is Odawa and spends his summers operating a food truck in the Wiikwemkoong Unceded Territory of Manitoulin Island where he grew up, said it’s important for Indigenous and non-Indigenous communities to continue learn about each other.

“I feel we are getting on the right track and all the secrets that Canada and the Catholic Church were hiding are coming out, you can only sweep these under the rug for so long before you can’t fit anything under it anymore, right? We inherited what’s going on, what has been going on and we as a country need to come together to help heal what had happened to Indigenous Peoples for so long. We are strong, we are resilient and we are still here.”

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Here’s how Toronto restaurants are answering calls to make Canada Day more meaningful - Toronto Star
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